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Q: from Kory Coots
Date: 28-08-08

Comments: puppy exercise

My puppies are 16 weeks old? How much should I exercise them? how much is too little and too much?

A: from Holly Schorr, Pennylane Dobermans, USA

Young puppies will exercise themselves if given room to romp and play, especially with each other. DO NOT do any formal exercise at this age or until they are over a year, at least.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Puppies do not have to haven enforced exercise. Just let them run around your yard until you see them falling asleep. I'd do this once or twice daily. Otherwise just let them out of the pen you keep them in during the day and let them run around the house either singly or together. They should get to walk/run on all surfaces and they also need lots of time with people for socialization. Do not keep them on slippery surfaces or you will find their feet going flat. They should be on a carpet or something not too hard.

Q: from Sandy Schamber
Date: 26-08-08

Comments: Vets/Others in No CA for Ears

Hi can you direct me to the link for a list of Vets/others who can do ear cropping?

Thanks!

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Sorry, there is no link to any Vets who do ear cropping. My advice is to contact your breeder and ask who does ear cropping or call around your area and find out who does cropping. Certainly do not crop later than 10 wks. on the puppy. You should contact the local Doberman Club if there is one in your area and I'm sure they would be willing to tell you who is a good Vet for cropping.

A: from Holly Schorr, Pennylane Dobermans, USA

If you check the D.P.C.A. website for the membership list you can contact someone in your area for a suggestion, or also on the website look for the closest Doberman Club in your area and contact their representative for a referral.

Q: from Ashley Foster
Date: 25-08-08

Comments: Reply To Dips In Ear

I just wanted to thank you guys for all of the information you gave me on my question earlier about the 'pocket' that formed in my male's right ear. I did actually attempt all of the methods suggested to see what worked best for him, and surprisingly re-taping was the answer. Thank you guys so much - you have been such a big help for my husband and I, and of course, our Doberman :)

A: from Holly Schorr, Pennylane Dobermans, USA

Thanks for letting us know and we are happy any of our suggestions helped you.

Good luck with your pup.
 

Q: from Ron Rozzo
Date: 21-08-08

Handling

Comments: I've been a Doberman owner for fifteen years but this is the first time I've taken on the challenge of raising brother/sister puppies. I'm divorced and live alone and the task seems daunting at times, especially since I'm going on 62. I have 16 acres and plenty of room for them to run. I'm open to all suggestions or just a list of do's and don'ts.

Thank you.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Ron,

Raising littermates is not ideal at all. Unless you separate them and just have one at a time loose in the house and the other in a crate or pen, they will continue to act like wild Indians. My advice is to find one another home or they will be uncontrollable forever. I hope both are not males. You didn't say.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Ron,

Yes, you have definitely taken on a challenge, but it can be done. I am assuming that they are still very young puppies. I hope that they are anyway. You will have to do things with them separately and give them turns of one on one at a time with you. During this time you will need to do things with them, such as play with them, train with them, take them for walks, etcetera.

They can spend time together too and some of that time too you will want to be with them doing all of the above mentioned things.

I will look to see if we have any other articles that specifically talk about this, but one that I can recommend is Supers Dogs Are Made Not Born.

Maybe think about going to an obedience classes too with the puppies. Establishing ground rules and adhering to them is the key.

I hope that this can give you some idea of things.

A: from Holly Schorr, Pennylane Dobermans, USA

Hi Ron

As Judy noted, having littermates if not ideal. It is, however, in my opinion, very do-able IF you are willing to put in the time. I currently have a brother/sister pair that I bred and raised from birth. They are now almost 8 years old and the most wonderful dogs in the world. However, from a VERY early age they were taught what I would accept and what I would not. Each got his/her own time with me and then time together and then time with all of us. They were raised as conformation show dogs so their manners are very good, but I raise all of my dogs the same way (children too) ... lots of love and praise but lots of rules and barriers. We make it clear that our home is not a democracy, there is only one alpha bitch and I am it....

If you do have a brother and sister then I think you can do it but two males never work, regardless of parentage Two girls usually are OK but sometimes get nasty with one another. If you only have two dogs then you should be alright but you have to set rules and follow them always. Obedience school is a very good idea for both. Just in way of comment, I do not ever sell a sibling pair to anyone.

Hope this helps.

Q: from Jennifer G.
Date 13-08-08

Comments: Wolfe Racks

Hello,

Do any of you know where to order these plastic racks for ears? I ran across a site for them before, now I can't find it again. Thanks

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

We've all tried racks at least once. They don't work any better than just simple taping. We have several posts on this site showing how to tape ears. Racks cause the puppy lots of stress and head shaking and other pups grab on to them hurting the pup. I don't recommend racks at all.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Jennifer,

I know that there must be a place but I don't know where it might be. I think that it is best, from my experience anyway, not to use racks on a Doberman. Go to our ear taping articles to find a good method. I personally like #11 which is a method by Carol Petruzzo.

Good luck.

Q: from Lindsey
Date: 12-08-08

Comments: Victim of a Backyard Breeder

Hello,

I had my first Doberman 6 years ago when she was rescued from the local pound. She was a fawn with a great temperament, unfortunately she had severe health problems and had to be put down at only 2 1/2 years old. I fell in love with Dobermans and I decided when I got the next one I would get it from a legitimate AKC breeder. Well eventually I got another puppy who was AKC certified, so I figured I was on the right track for a healthy dog. I never met the parents of the dog who the breeder owned which I thought quite strange at the time. Soon it was evident that this puppy had some temperament problems. We took her to a formal obedience class where she was the farthest behind. She was scared of EVERYTHING and EVERYONE. We have had lots of dogs before this and have never had the kind of strange temperamental problems that we have with Medley. She is great with our family including the kids. However, she is scared of everything from objects to strangers and especially to other dogs.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Lindsey,

I'd say you again bought your dog from a BYB. Just because it's registered it doesn't mean that your dog's parents were health tested and bred for good
temperaments and were socialized at the breeder's home. What's done is done so now what do you do? You were taking her to training classes but at this point I think it would be better if you got a personal trainer and an evaluation from a good trainer as to what they think they can do with your dog. I would also keep up the training classes, take her to the mall and just at first walk her around. Don't ask people to touch her but just let her walk along and get to know that people will not hurt her. Later on after she relaxes, you might talk to someone and tell them you are having a problem. At first don't have them make any eye contact with your dog but just talk to you. You can get a friend if you don't care to do it at the mall. Once your dog is not even paying any attention to your friend, have the friend just put their hand down so she can sniff it. Don't have her make any moves with the hand, let the dog do it all. Next, have the friend get out a dog cookie and if she'll take it fine, if not, put it away for now.

Another method that sometimes works even quicker is to have your friend take the dog for a long walk. You stay home. Have the friend talk quite a bit
to the dog, do a little running but always have them keep the dog at the heel position so your dog isn't running out to the end of the lead and avoiding you friend. Do this often and do it with different people. I would think your dog would come around but it will not be easy.

If she is good with the family, that may be all you will get. You don't' know anything about the breeder or your pedigree so it may be of no help. Have you contacted the breeder? How old is your dog?

Good luck.

Q: from Jim Fry
Date: 12-08-08

Marking
Comments: I have 3 rescued Dobermans, all came with issues (order of adoption: male (at 8 wks) with brain lesions, stability issues, etc; a female (at 7 months) with socialization fears and a damaged/deformed shoulder; and a male (1 year) who was previously debarked and ignored with socialization issues, mainly indifference). All integrated and mostly got over the issues that could be addressed (physical issues could not be corrected, for example). Recently, the younger male and later arrival, has started marking in the house - under the kitchen table, on boxes on the floor, on clothes around the house, in hallways, etc. Never when he's seen. He's, in my estimation, an insecure alpha dog. All do well with each other, never been any real fights though there has been head-hanging over the others back, some growling, etc. All get plenty of exercise and play and much socialization at the dog park. All are people and animal friendly by and large. All are Canine Good Citizens.

I have no idea what has caused the marking issue, it is now frequent. Very recently the older male went on a marking spree, something I do not believe he's ever done before. Again, not while I observed him but the pattern clearly indicated the stability challenged boy.

Any suggestions, tips or direction would be appreciated. They all have the run of the house and yard. I've started confining the younger male outside when I'm not around to avoid marking episodes in the house. I am loathe to continue that though, especially since I believe his original owners confined him and his brother outside all the time.

Thanks.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Jim,

I'm afraid you will not like what I have to say but unless you are prepared to keep both males TOTALLY separated the rest of their lives, I would try and find a home for one of them. It matters not if they are both neutered but it might help with the "marking" but unless you use a product that totally eliminates the odor of previous urine spots, this dog will repeat constantly. Keeping him locked outdoors is not right. If this is the case, why have the dog in the first place. He doesn't know why he is being banned to outdoors while the others are inside. Please find him a loving, forever home.

Unless you keep these males totally separated, they will get into a fight that you may not be able to separate and while doing so, you will get cut up pretty badly. Not that they will bite you on purpose but they are so into the fighting and hating each other and one trying to establish the alpha roll, that they will fight to the death. Don't think it won't happen. We, who are on this Q & A committee have had many years experience with living with multiple Dobermans. I have owned them for over 50 years and have had many males and all have had to be separated.

Please, find a wonderful home for your younger male and have him neutered before placing in a home. I'm sure he will have a nice life and you will have it much easier with your male and female.

A: from Holly Schorr, Pennylane Dobermans, USA

First, separate the males and KEEP them separated. I get very frustrated hearing about people letting males run together - intact or not. Doberman males DO NOT get along. Oh, they might for a while, and I am sure there are rare exceptions, but the rule is NO, they do not get along and eventually you will have a fight and injuries - usually canine and human. This has just happened with a friend of mine who swore her males always get along - did for several years - when they didn't one ended up with over 200 stitches!! Next, nueter/spay everything in your house. A very effective way of stopping marking in the home is to buy a bunch ( a LOT) of fly swatters and put them all over the house easily accessible. If the male even sniffs a chair, plant, couch, etc. where they might mark or has been marked use the fly swatter and really let them have it. The swatter cannot injure the dog but does sting and hurts their feelings and get the message across. I do this will all of my puppy males and have never had a problem with marking. Hope these suggestions will help.
 

Q: from Julie Frank
Date: 7-08-08

Comments: vehicle anxiety

Hello,

I'm wondering if any of you have experienced vehicle anxiety with your dogs....I have a wonderful 10 month old bitch, VERY self confident & happy, until we enter the vehicle....she drools profusely & sometimes throws up...not all of the time, for a while if got better, then yesterday we took a ride, & it was back to the heavy drooling, and when we returned home, after about a 20 minute ride, she threw up....I've taken her for short rides, just a couple of blocks, longer rides across town, & tried just getting in the vehicle with her & giving her a treat, then immediately get out....she's never had a negative experience going anywhere, so I just can't figure where this anxiety comes from....does anyone have any suggestions how I can deal with this....I would love to take her places, also, I do want to enter her in shows, but I haven't because of this.

Thanks.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Advice procurred from behavioralist Gail Vettorino

Hi Marj and Julie,

I have a few questions for this Julie to think about:

How long has Julie owned this dog, when did the dog first begin riding in the car? Has the dog always salivated and/or vomited, exhibiting the same behavior from the first car ride? Is it worse when the route is full of curves in the road or up and down hill? Are you feeding the dog prior to the car ride, and if so, how soon before the dog is in the car? Where is the dog riding in the car - front seat, back seat, in the back of a van or truck? And is she more comfortable in one area of the car than in another? If the dog is not crated, does she try to lie on the floor of the car?

My feeling is that there is a cause to the anxiety that hasn't been discovered, and other negative car experiences have been ruled out by Julie. Another cause of the behavior could be that the dog either currently becomes car sick, or used to be car sick. The questions are directed at discovering if the dog suffers from motion sickness.

If the dog is currently suffering from motion sickness the salivation is a physical response to the expectation of nausea and vomiting. The dog associates nausea and vomiting with the car. Whether the dog vomits or not can be due to several variables - when the dog last ate, the duration of the car ride, the type of terrain the car is traveling and where the dog is placed in the car. I think the vomiting is a sign that at some point, this dog has motion sickness, and the variables are controlling whether or not the dog vomits. Vomiting after getting out of the car would still indicate motion sickness because it can take a while after the motion ceases for that area of the brain to normalize.

Most dogs outgrow motion sickness. If this is the case, and the dog no longer experiences motion sickness but still exhibits the same behavior, then the dog may have only a remaining anxiety problem because the car is still associated with physical discomfort.

Dramamine can be administered to dogs for motion sickness. Check with a vet for the proper dosage amount. If the dog suffers from motion sickness, this could help by eliminating the physical symptoms.

With or without motion sickness involved, begin to build a positive association with the car and car rides for your dog by doing exactly as Marj has described. If you first only put your dog into the car, then gradually build up to moving the car, and then take her for very short car rides, you can begin to condition her to the motion of the car and build a positive association with the car. Let your dog be successful and relaxed at each step before you move on to the next. If it seems that she suddenly regresses, stop and go back in your conditioning program to where she was last successful, and stay there until she is relaxed and confident again. Once you are able to successfully go for longer rides, you can also try going to only dog-fun places for a while such as the park, pet store, etc. (and not to the vet) to really give her the feeling that car rides are fun and rewarding.

I hope this adds a bit, and Marj I agree completely with your advice!

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Julie,

Do you put her in a crate when you take her in the car. If so, each day take her to the car and put her in the crate and don't go anywhere. You can cover the crate so that she cannot see out and hopefully it will have her relax and lay down. Start with a short time, say five minutes and do it little longer the next time. When you feel that she can handle the driving, try just taking the car with her in her covered crate around the block. Of coarse praise her and play with her and etcetera.

This method may be a bit slower but I do prefer it to tranquilizing her. You can however, buy some Bach's Rescue Remedy (the spray) and try using this for calming her before you put her into the car. Just follow the direction on the bottle. You can give her some every 15 minutes until you see a calming and then put her in to car just to be in the crate and not driving.

The idea is to build her confidence to be in the car and in the crate and eventually go for a ride. When you do go for a ride, maybe you can take her for a leash walk after or do something that she likes to do, like play ball or whatever.

I am going to write a behaviorist for another answer for you and we will post it.

Thank you.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Julie,

Are you using a crate or are you just letting her ride on the seat? Put her in a crate and cover the windows on the side of the car. It's ok to let her see out the back. Most reasons for car sickness is seeing things pass by and it makes her nauseous. Put her in a crate, start the car and let it sit running with you in it. Turn on the radio so there is music or something other than the sound of the engine. After about 5 min. take her out. See if she was drooling. Try this for a few times and then take the car around the block and back home. Do this a few times and make the trips longer and longer. Soon she should be laying down in the crate and not getting sick.

A: from Holly Schorr, Pennylane Dobermans, USA

Years ago I was asked to "re-train" a bitch with similar problems. It was a long process which I had to give back to the owners to finish but I started by just putting the dog in the car, loose and in a kennel, and then taking her out. I did this several times a day and would let her sit in the car without it moving. I found she was better when in the crate than loose....presumably it gave her a little support. Then I would give her saltine crackers (helps to settle the stomach and they think they are a treat) and praise her.

After a couple of days I drove about two blocks and back, took her out of the car and praised and immediately started playing with her - she was in the crate when the car was moving. I did this several times a day and then gradually increased the length and time of the trips. I DID NOT make a big deal out of putting her in the car or taking her out but did play and praise her when she got out. I sent her home to her family with instructions to continue to increase distance and frequency and in time (probably a month) she was riding OK as long as she was in a crate. They moved across the country so I am not sure how she did long range but I think OK. Some dogs just hate the motion and do get sick. There are medications (ask your vet) to help with this. I read that you have tried the above to some extent but it takes time and a lot of patience to get the result.

Q: from Jason Haynes
Date 7-08-08

Comments: ear cropping

Where can I find an established DVM that has a lot of experience and really knows know to sculpt the ears to the face. My dog is almost five weeks old and is still with the breeder I am getting him from but time is ticking and I need to find a good vet in Alabama that does show style ear cropping.

A: from Holly Schorr, Pennylane Dobermans, USA

We cannot recommend anyone directly but if you check the D.P.C.A. membership list for your area and call any of the breeders they should be able to refer you to someone near you. If not in your town/city then you might have to drive a ways but it would be worth it.

There are breeders in Alabama so do call them. I will tell you that 'reputable breeders' would not allow their pups to leave them without first being cropped....just something for you to consider.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I'm sorry but we cannot recommend anyone on this list. Most of the time the Breeder would have all the pups cropped before they are sent to new homes. I would suggest you call your local Kennel Club and perhaps they might recommend someone or just call Vets in your area and ask them if they do show crops. They might put you in touch with an exhibitor and you can look at the crop and see if you like it.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Jason,

Your breeder should know of someone who can crop your puppies ears. In fact, your breeder should, in my opinion, be having the ears cropped for you. The
only thing that I can suggest for you to do is to go to www.DPCA.org and scroll to breeder referral and click onto Alabama and find a breeder and contact them for a suggestion.

I do know of a veterinarian in Atlanta, Georgia who crops ears. Is that too far away? Her name is Patricia Edwards, DVM. You can contact her at
www.earcropvet.com or dobevet@aol.com. Dr. Edwards, herself is a Doberman fancier and breeder and a DPCA member.

I have seen her work and I think that it would be worth your time to make the trip if it is at all possible. I would trust any recommendation that she may have for a cropper in Alabama too.

Good luck.

Q: from Amber
Date 5-08-08

My female Doberman weighs 40 pounds at 18 weeks. I purchased her from a pet shop unfortunately but she is the sweetest dog. I would like to know how big she may get she does have big feet. Thanks.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Amber,

It is really hard to predict just how big that your girl is going to be. Since you did buy her from a pet shop, you most likely you did not get to see the parents. She should grow into her feet. I am afraid that you are just going to have to wait and see. Her weighing 40 pounds at 41/2 months, I am thinking that she will be within the standard. The standard does call for a Doberman to be heavy boned and a female to be 24 to 26 inches in height at the withers. She may not be as heavy boned as one would want but she will be okay and will probably be in balance with her weight and size. She will have most of her height by 9 or 10 months and she will be filling out and developing her body weight and muscle for about 2 years. You need to know what I am predicting is an educated guess and I could be wrong.

Thank you.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Did your Mama look at your feet and know how big you were going to be? Go look at the parents and see how big they are and talk to the breeder and ask her. Oops, I forgot you bought her at a pet shop. Guess you'll just have to wait and see how big she gets.

Judy Doniere
Breeder, not a pet shop

Q: from Kim
Date: 1-08-08

Comments: Conditioning

I have a male Dobie that is almost 14 months old. He is my future conformation/agility/obedience dog and I was wondering what kind of conditioning I should be doing at this age. Right now he gets a morning and an evening walk everyday, usually about 45 minutes to an hour each. He also gets time off leash to run and play fetch in a safe enclosed area at least once a day. He was diagnosed with panosteitis but has not had any flare ups in the past 3 months (during his bouts of pano his exercise is limited of course). No matter how much training and walking we do everyday he still seems to have an endless amount of energy. I think he would benefit from some vigorous aerobic exercise and I would like to start bicycling with him. What do you recommend?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Kim,

For road working you will need to wait until his growth plates are closed which should be at about 18 months. One way that can tell is by looking at his front legs at the joint where the bottom of the forelegs meet the pastern (wrist) joints, look to see if that area is smooth and appears to be filled in. All the while he was a puppy you will remember that it wasn't filled in and that area had sort of like holes, hard to explain, but do you remember or does he still? Normally it takes about 18 months for all of his growth plates to close with the croup being pretty much that last to do so. Maybe someone can look for you.

When you do start you can start bicycling him at about 1/2 mile and slowly working up to 2 miles per day. If you are going to do this controlled exercise, teach your boy not to pull and to heel next to you and the bicycle or whatever vehicle that you use for this. I, myself, use my van. Gait him at a speed where his gait or trotting is correct and about the speed that he will be trotting in the ring. I find that about 6 mph is an average good speed. Don't allow him to roadwork sidewinding of over-reaching. I personally use road working more for teaching the dog to gait correctly as well as exercise.

For exercise you can also play ball with him take him for walks and if there is an area where you live, free runs. I see that you do this and this is great. Also you can consider having him outside in the yard more and if you have another dog, play is good. I keep mine out a lot and I demand that when they come into the house that they are quiet. I teach this young. I provide beds for them to lay on and teach them to walk, not run, around the house and to lie down. You need to have house rules is what I am trying to say.

By the way, the Doberman does have a lot of energy and especially when they are young.

I hoped that this helps.

A: from Holly Schorr, Pennylane Dobermans, USA

Continue the exercise you are doing and try and get him to chase a ball "uphill", if possible in your area. Other than what you are doing you cannot add too much on a dog his age. Throwing a ball or frisbee a couple of times a day helps but he is just too young to road work or jog over a short distance. All young Dobes have lots of energy and that is a good thing. Often times starting them in Agility or Obedience occupies their minds and will use up some of the energy. I do not recommend any type of structured conditioning until over 18 months and then gradually build to it.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

I would continue doing what you are doing until he's about 18 mo. old and no flare ups of Pano at all. Then you can start to trot him on the bike so short periods. I would not start out more than a half mile at first working gradually up to a mile and then stay there for quite a while. At this stage, I would just let him do the exercise in the yard throwing a ball and playing with him. Some dogs are more high strung than others but remember, he is a puppy and he wants to play. Do you work? If he is alone and laying around all day with nothing to do, then this is why he is more excited and wants to do something with you. It's normal for him to want to play more but if you are giving him the exercise you say, then don't worry about it.

Q: from Ashley Foster

Date: 31-07-08

Comments: Dip In The Ear

Alright - I was not sure if it was also called a pocket, or if it was something completely different, so I thought I would ask. Sorry for a repeat question, and thank you very much for all of the information. I will let you know how it goes.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello again,

A pocket is that crease in the ear at the base. It should not be there. Having that crease is the cause for the ear to be over the head. I am assuming that the ear is pointing at about 10 o'clock, is it?

Thank you and do let us know and no big deal on the repeat question.

Q: from Joshua Ransom
Date: 31-07-08

Comments:

Hi,

I own an 11 month old Dobe bitch that just had her first heat (if my calculations are correct she should have gone out some time this past weekend or the first of this week). I've noticed her teats appear much larger than they did before coming in heat. My question is... is this normal or could it be a false preg? I'm assuming that this is normal but wanted to check with a more experienced source. Thanks for such a wonderful resource for the inexperience Dobe owner, I've used the q&a sections numerous times and always find the information I receive to be accurate and most helpful. Thanks again!

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Joshua,

From your description of what your girl is going through, it all sounds normal. Please take note, record, when her season was and pay attention as to when
the next one may be and record that too. This way you will have an idea when to expect her to come into season again. Normally it is about 6 months give
or take a little between the heat cycles.

The normal amount of days that they are in season is about 21 days. There is an article on our pages that can give you some information about this.
http://www.dpca.org/BreedEd/events_estrus_cycle.htm

I hope that we have been helpful.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

This is totally normal. Once a bitch has their first season the teats get bigger. It's rare for a bitch to have a false pregnancy on the first season and she's just going out of season so it's way too early. It sounds like she is a normal puppy. Sit back and relax and watch her grow.

Q: from Ashley Foster
Date: 30-07-08

Comments: Dip In The Ear

It appears that my puppy has what one article calls a 'dip' in his right ear, and it tends to fall toward the center of his head. I read in one of the articles on the page that some people use a massaging technique to help ease the dip out. Does anyone know if this is beneficial? Would I be better taping? If I do need to tape, do I need to do both ears, or would I not since the other one is fine? The puppy is now just shy of 5 months - am I too late to help his ear? Thank you.

A: from Holly Schorr, Pennylane Dobermans, USA

I am not sure I am understanding you with what you are describing - is it an ear that drops in the middle into the center of the head? Or is it a pocket in the ear? If the ear is just bending back over the head you tape around the bend with a slight weight (I have used fishing weights) taped to the inside of the ear - the weight makes the puppy use the ear. If it is a pocket in the ear then the method JuD described is the way to go.

A: from Judy Doniere, Toledobes, USA

Ashley,

This is the hardest thing to correct. My advice is to find one of those popcorn pieces of Styrofoam for packing and use liquid adhesive and coat one side of it. Let it get tacky first. Place the popcorn on the inside of the ear right where the dimple is and push it out. Hold the popcorn in place until it holds. Then take a one inch strip of adhesive tape and wrap around the ear holding the popcorn in place. You don't need to tape the rest of the ear nor tape the other ear. Once this is in place how does it look? Is the ear straight up??? If not, do it over immediately. Make sure you push out that dimple before you wrap tape around it. Leave this on for about 5 days. Smell the area often to make sure you are not getting a sore. If so, take down and clean an apply an antiseptic powder. And wait a day or so until it heals. Do not wrap the tape too tight and just make one strip around.

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Ashley,

You do need to keep taping the ears. The massaging the ear outward at the base works okay in-between the tapings. It is good that you have been doing this. You will need to tape them and when you take them down, massage and then re-tape them. Just recently I/we put into detail how to tape to correct this problem. Basically you need to stretch the ear up to 12 o'clock and them pull it/them to about the 2 o'clock and the 10 o'clock position still stretched and tape them. I can try to go and look for this particular Q&A and share it again. Depending on which method in our articles of taping that you did, you may just go back to the taping method that you were doing. The key is to stretch that pocket out and then tape the ear. http://www.dpca.org/BreedEd/ears1.htm. The very last ear taping method is a good one for this. This method is very good for an ear where the opening of the ears doesn't always hold the ear plug. Also, when finished taping each time there is nothing in the ear so you can leave the tape up longer in-between tapings.

I found it on page 12 http://www.dpca.org/BreedEd/QAArchives12.htm

Here is what we said; Marj (me) said "You will have to continue to tape the ears. The ears have formed pockets. These pockets are formed at the skull on the top of the head and on the backside of the ear. To help this problem you have to be careful not to have the taped ears tipping over the top of the head when you place the lower piece of tape around the ear. Pull the tip to about a 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock angle and insert the post deep down into the ear then put the lower piece of tape onto the ear base or bottom of the ear close to the head the head. In other words you are taping the ears angled to the outside. Of course tape the posted ear as you normally would to the tip. If you look closely you will see the pocket pop out when you do this. Be sure that when you do this that the post doesn't ride up in the ear hole. Keep it pushed down into the ear tight. I hope that this is understandable and helps you."

Judy D suggested "Depending on the pups age and how long it's been since cropping, you should be able to correct the ears. You have what we call "dimples" close to the base of the ears. I would suggest you go back to posting them but make sure that the "dimple" is pushed out by putting a cotton ball against it on the inside and then add your post. The post MUST be put down snug in the ear and not allowed to pop out causing the ear to again lay or lean over towards the
other ear. Leave this up for about 4 to 5 days. Take down and see how it's doing. If it's still going over again, you will need to put something like one of the popcorn bits that come in packaging boxes against the dimple to pop it out. Use surgical adhesive to hold it in place. You might want to use this method instead of the cotton ball in the first place. Make sure the ears don't get raw or sore. If they do, take them down immediately and wait until they are healed."

Darlene suggested: "Please go to the website under the articles there are many suggested methods of wrapping ears to correct different problems. DPCA Breeder Education . Be sure you brace the ears at the skull so the can't pitch in while they are in wraps and over time that should correct the problem." I hope that all of this does help you get the ears standing straight and tall and beautiful at 12 o'clock.

Please let us know how these work for you.

Thank you.

Q: from Nanette
Date: 28-07-08

Comments: this puppy had 3rd generation inbreeding

We think we have found a beautiful bitch , however she is a third generation of inbreeding father to daughter so her grandmother was inbred and she is third generation. What would you suggest?

Also, can you refer us to any pure bloodline breeders in the New Hampshire area or surrounding areas of New England?

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Nanette,

I would suggest that you read all of the information below and make a decision based on the knowledge that you gain from all of these articles. Buying an inbred dog depends on a lot of things and the decision to inbreed would be based on a lot of knowledge of the breed and the dogs involved. Make sure that this father/daughter breeding wasn't an accidental breeding or if it was a planned breeding for all the right reasons. There is probably an article on our pages about inbreeding and the whys and what for of the decision to do this type of breeding.

• http://www.dpca.org/BreedEd/genetics_breeding.htm 
• http://www.dpca.org/BreedEd/planned_breeding.htm

I always advise, if you see a "red flag" listen to yourself. If I am reading this correctly, I think that you are seeing a red flag and are having reservations. Please take some time out to read the information that we have sent to you.
We are here to help, so after you read all of this feel free to ask any question that you feel that you would like to ask. Again, we cannot tell you what to buy but we can help with the education for you to make an informed decision. Also read the articles about Doberman temperament and all of the health articles.

Another thing, the parents of the litter should be tested for all of the diseases that plague our breed so that proper breeding decisions can be made on health by the breeder.

• http://www.dpca.org/BreedEd/what_to_look_for.htm
• http://www.dpca.org/BreedEd/breeders_good_bad.htm
• http://www.dpca.org/BreedEd/tips_on_buying.htm

A: from Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans, USA

Hello Sam,

This is a hard one. Since you have contacted a couple of trainers, why not see what they can do to help you. Taking him to an obedience class too would be helpful. Be sure to find a class and/or a trainer or the instructor will teach you how to train your dog as well.

When I am walking my dogs I have found that when they are on leash, they tend to be more protective. When he raises his hair up, pet it down and tell him to be calm. Hopefully by petting his hair down you will relax him. Do not allow your boy to "posture" and put his head over the other dog's shoulders and don't allow the other dog to do that to your dog. If this occurs, the next step is a fight. You want to avoid a dog fight at all costs. Once this happens, it will be much harder to remedy the problem. I would cease maybe from taking him for walks where there are lose dogs until you can be advised by one of these trainers that you have contacted.

The problem I find with dog parks and walking dogs is often time the other persons that take their dogs know nothing about dog language let alone how to avoid it.

Here are a couple of articles that may heal you learn how to read a dog. http://www.dpca.org/BreedEd/SPEAKINGDOGGISH.htm

Here is one that is on our pages about dealing with aggression. http://www.dpca.org/BreedEd/DEALING_WITH_AGGRESSION.htm

There are other articles too about temperament and behavior of the Doberman and dogs in general. http://www.dpca.org/BreedEd/article_menu.htm

I hope that this will help you with this problem.

Also when you and your dog get into this position, try not to be fearful. This behavior on your part can jump start your dog into aggression. Try to be calm and assertive.

Robyn,

A puppy might be better as you would raise it together but it's up to you to make sure your child is never alone with a puppy or a dog until she knows you don't pull ears or hit a dog etc. Children just don't usually know how to treat a grown dog or puppy so it's up to you to teach both. Puppies have very sharp teeth and when they play they bite and scratch young children so you have to teach both to play safely so neither gets hurt. Puppies don't know any better so they think a child is another puppy so that's how they play and it hurts. As far as the poodle is concerned, a puppy would be better with it unless the grown dog has been raised with a small dog

If you go to a good rescue unit, I'm sure they will find the perfect Dobe female for you that will fit into your family. Having a Toy Poodle is much like really not having a dog compared to a dog the size of a Dobe. You must make sure the bitch will like small dogs. With one that size, you can't take any chances as it would take just one bite and that's it. Your children are quite young but if they've behaved well with the Poodle, I would say the same thing. Make sure the older female Dobe likes children.

Most long time breeders seldom sell Dobermans to people with children under 10 because the parents do not teach them how to behave around dogs and
young children cannot be expected to know not to pull ears or grab around the neck of a dog that is new to the family. You must find out WHY the dog is in Rescue to begin with. Was it a temperament problem or were the owners forced to turn her in because of health or money problems.

As I said, most good rescue units screen the prospective new owners and I'm sure they will find the right dog to fit your family and your Toy Poodle.

It is customary for the owner of the bitch to find the stud, not the other way around. In reality, very few males ever get used at stud. Often, even a high profile, well-bred male rarely has one or two bitchs come to him in his lifetime.

I have no idea who handles in that area but some of the breeders located here http://dpca.org/BreedRef/index_html.htm#Illinois may be able to help you out.